BFW: Brighton Frocks Show

13 June 2011


St Martin’s Church, Lewes Road. June 2011. The setting for Brighton Fashion Weeks’ Brighton Frocks and Couture Shows. This gorgeous, gothic setting was perfect for the designers to showcase their fabulous collections.
On Thursday 2nd June Brighton Frocks took over the 19th Century chapel for a show described as “a dramatic and visually astounding theatrical performance showcasing off the wall designer collections in an unconventional manner”, promising a dynamic, colourful and eclectic performance and fusion of styles and eras. I was intrigued to see how the designers and organisers of the show would do this and me-oh-my, they did not fail to disappoint!
 
Katie Newsam - Candied Taunt

Starting with Katie Newsam’s ‘Candied Taunt’ collection, models moved like statuesque broken dolls in brightly coloured clown like garments. Eerie circus music echoed through the cloisters to add to the tone. Newsam described her collection as “The sweet and the sinister! The evil that lurks behind the face paint”. I really admired how this collection was brought to life, despite my indescribable fear of clowns! I especially loved the looped geometric fabrics, along with big hair, accessorised with colourful mini top hats. 

Red Mutha - Mutha Vuggaz
Red Mutha was next with her “Mutha Vuggaz’ cut up collection. The use of sock monkeys as accessories was a touch of whimsical genius and the plain white logo on the back of black jackets looked as if Mickey Mouse was the bastard child of Noel Fielding and Vivien Westwood. It was good to see these local heroes of fashion up on the catwalk. Their 'cut and paste' trademark is a great way to be individual as every piece is unique and complete one-offs.

Natalie Wileman for Former Glory - Gone But Not Forgotten

Natalie Wileman for Former Glory’s re-worked vintage collection, ‘Gone But Not Forgotten’, paid homage to three of fashion’s iconic figures. Starting with a dedication to Gianni Versace, the models wore black and gold, 80s, Italian style, body-con dresses. This was followed by a selection inspired by the late Alexander McQueen, where the models lumbered like zombies down the catwalk. The final homage was to the recently controversial John Galliano, with models drunkenly shambling down the catwalk in beautiful ruffled Parisian style dresses. Each designer was introduced by news reports of their “deaths” in the fashion world.

Sarina Poppy - The Dream (Silent Movies)
This was quite a hard act to follow but Sarina Poppy’s collection, ‘Dreams’, took us by storm. Her models floated and danced in expertly crafted 1920s inspired dresses, drawing from silent movies, depicting a theme of timeless grace. Sepia tones were used throughout to add to this theme. The models carried a range of spectacular antique clocks, complimenting the flapper style dresses sublimely. To complete the outfits Ms. Poppy collaborated with theatrical milliner, Anushka Tay. I have a huge love for vintage so obviously this was one that was going to pull at my heartstrings. I think Sarina Poppy is absolutely amazing after seeing this. I couldn’t stop thinking about this collection all night. Definitely one to watch!

I.Am.Ralph - Who Needs a Superhero? Vs Will you be my Best Friend?
After a short interval we were offered a bold menswear collection from London based designer, I Am.Ralph. The designer stated, “It is inspired by all my favourite superheroes - Power Rangers, Superman, Spiderman, X–men, Pokemon - the list goes on!” This was translated to the catwalk as bright, bold and blocky colours, using reds, bright blues and greens, worn by skateboarding models ollie-ing onto the catwalk.


Bugsy Pants - Beside the Seaside
 The fun continued as Brighton-based, Bugsy Pants came out with their “build your own” range of swimwear called, Beside the Seaside. A very British collection with newspaper print fabrics and an almost 1940s feel. For the finale of the collection, two models strutted on the catwalk with William and Kate masks whilst wearing union jack swimwear.

 
Joy Williams - Hybrid Walkway
After this, Joy Williams overwhelmed us with her ultra sexy latex earth tone collection called ‘Hybrid Walkway’. The collection was amazing with some very clever embossing and embellishments. Very futuristic. It made me think what clothes would be like if they were designed by Lady Gaga and H.R Geiger. 

Briar-Rose Kelleher - Marie Antionette took DMT

Briar-Rose Kelleher then blasted us back into the 18th century. The idea behind this collection was ‘what if Marie Antionette went to a free party and took DMT?’ The collection depicts the journey that Antionette would go on and demonstrated the different stages in which the drug affects her. The collection was full of bustles, lace and frills. Intense hardcore Gabba music added to the slightly trip-gone-wrong vibe! It was a truly breathtaking selection and brilliantly executed.



Secret Apple Yard - Charged Up

The night was ended with a visual treat from Secret Apple Yard who gave us a light show spectacular, infused with clothing and amazing visuals to match. The collection, called Charged Up, used cutting edge technology and LCD lights for a futuristic, neon dream. It was like Jean-Paul Gautier doing Tron!

I certainly left the church feeling quite excited. I'm looking forward to tomorrow night's Couture Show where Jez Eaton will be showing off her new collection. Eaton's collection at last years BFW: Trashion Show was quite spectacular and she impressed the audience with her dresses made out of Lidl bags and barbie dolls.





Images taken by Jennie Davies from Vintage Owl Boutique 
Image of Jez Eaton's Lidl dresses courtesy of  telegraph.co.uk
This article was also written for Pretty Litter Magazine
(Please ask for permission if you would like to use any of the pics)