BFW: Couture Show

On June 3rd BFW opened their doors once more for the Couture show. There was certainly a lot more hustle and bustle in the candle lit church and we were treated to some live music from a trio of musicians. A DJ laid down some housey-housey beats whilst a violinist added a classical tone, and a soulful singer added accompanying melodies and vocals. It was an interesting and eclectic blend of styles that actually made the audience think about what they were hearing. On the back wall of the church you could see shadows of the models and designers, all back stage getting ready for the first collection of the evening. It was great to see this; it added a sense of excitement and anticipation that was only present towards the end of the previous nights show.

Tim Rhys-Evans

As soon as I was settled in my seat we were graced with the presence of Tim Rhys-Evans’ all black collection. He had taken the Elizabethan neck ruffle and added a modern twist. The detail was focused on the upper body and new necklines gave the models a powerful and statuesque look. This is a look I would definitely love to see more of.

Tijana & Mila Popovic - Fairies from the Heart of the Forest

The collection by Serbian design duo, Tijana and Mila Popovic, was a contrasting difference from Tim Rhys Evans gothic collection. ‘Fairies from the Heart of the Forest’ was a very delicate and romantic white collection with only the flashes of lime green eye make-up for colour. Queen Adreena’s Pretty Polly echoed around the church adding to the dreamy atmosphere. I found myself instantly thinking “I want one of these dresses!” Lace has been quite a big trend this season and they had used beautifully crocheted detailing in their dresses. Some of the models were even wearing handmade crocheted lace as head-wear that slightly came over the eyes. 

Studio 805
 

We were then treated to the only menswear couture collection of the night from Studio_805. The models walked down the catwalk in quite a menacing manner with Mickey Mouse style ears and garments that reflected quite a dark theme. The garments were in black and white and had quite a strong sportswear / S&M look.

Hayley Lai

Hayley Lai took inspiration from Star Wars for her BFW collection. Her garments had dimensional, futuristic, geometrical shapes. Hayley Lai had also stated that Katy Perry and Kanye West’s music video "ET" was also an inspiration to her in terms of styling. 

Masato

The Masato collection was amazing and the more I look at it the more I fall in love with it. It was incredibly stylish with 1940s and 1950s tailoring in beautiful warm tones.

Millie Betito

Millie Betito was certainly another gothic collection but her usage of soft knits and luxurious pleated fabrics was cleverly done so that it added an air of sophistication. Betito used similar techniques to origami to get layered ruffled effects, and I can tell you it worked! This girl has only graduated one year ago from Manchester Metropolitan University and if she is designing eye catching pieces like this now, I would definitely love to see what she will produce in the future.

Alexei Izmaylov

After all these fabulous collections so far tonight, Alexei Izmaylov, was the first to receive a standing ovation from the crowd. The usage of his Club 101 silk scarves was certainly a work of art. His abstract prints on structured dresses, styled with big romantic hair was truly wonderful.

Jess Eaton - Roadkill Couture

 

Next was the designer I had been waiting for all evening, showcasing her 'Roadkill Couture' collection. No one had an inkling of what Jess Eaton was going to produce for this year’s BFW until the day of the show. And I can tell you it was a jaw dropper and made you think about the ultimate nature of sustainability. Eaton had made items out of fur and bones from dead animals that died from natural causes, were bought over the counter at the butchers or even found dead on the side of the road. Beautiful hats from magpie wings and buffalo horn went well with her punk styling. Among her more unusual creations were a hat made from a fox’s head, a necklace made from rat skulls and a cape made from a Shire horses tail. Her application of feathers was the most striking thing of all, however, especially the dramatic array of pheasant and magpie feathers, which were styled with Prince of Wales check, Argyle or latex. Fabulous. Absolutely, truly fabulous.

Edward Finney

The Jess Eaton collection was the hardest act to follow. Edward Finney’s collection was a Parisian wonder, consisting of a black Edwardian dress that had a skirt with so many layers and ruffles that I was surprised that the model was able to move down the catwalk at all! Gorgeous! His finale for the night was a white dress that had purple ink spots dripping down the fabric. It was a great collection but it paled in comparison to the bizarrely beautiful work of Jess Eaton.

Here’s to BFW 2012. I wonder where they will go from here?

Images taken by Jennie Davies from Vintage Owl Boutique

Videos taken by Jo Bowden

(Please ask for permission if you would like to use any of the pics or vids)

BFW: Brighton Frocks Show

St Martin’s Church, Lewes Road. June 2011. The setting for Brighton Fashion Weeks’ Brighton Frocks and Couture Shows. This gorgeous, gothic setting was perfect for the designers to showcase their fabulous collections.

On Thursday 2^nd June Brighton Frocks took over the 19^th Century chapel for a show described as “a dramatic and visually astounding theatrical performance showcasing off the wall designer collections in an unconventional manner”, promising a dynamic, colourful and eclectic performance and fusion of styles and eras. I was intrigued to see how the designers and organisers of the show would do this and me-oh-my, they did not fail to disappoint!

 

Katie Newsam - Candied Taunt

Starting with Katie Newsam’s ‘Candied Taunt’ collection, models moved like statuesque broken dolls in brightly coloured clown like garments. Eerie circus music echoed through the cloisters to add to the tone. Newsam described her collection as “The sweet and the sinister! The evil that lurks behind the face paint”. I really admired how this collection was brought to life, despite my indescribable fear of clowns! I especially loved the looped geometric fabrics, along with big hair, accessorised with colourful mini top hats. 

Red Mutha - Mutha Vuggaz

Red Mutha was next with her “Mutha Vuggaz’ cut up collection. The use of sock monkeys as accessories was a touch of whimsical genius and the plain white logo on the back of black jackets looked as if Mickey Mouse was the bastard child of Noel Fielding and Vivien Westwood. It was good to see these local heroes of fashion up on the catwalk. Their 'cut and paste' trademark is a great way to be individual as every piece is unique and complete one-offs.

Natalie Wileman for Former Glory - Gone But Not Forgotten

Natalie Wileman for Former Glory’s re-worked vintage collection, ‘Gone But Not Forgotten’, paid homage to three of fashion’s iconic figures. Starting with a dedication to Gianni Versace, the models wore black and gold, 80s, Italian style, body-con dresses. This was followed by a selection inspired by the late Alexander McQueen, where the models lumbered like zombies down the catwalk. The final homage was to the recently controversial John Galliano, with models drunkenly shambling down the catwalk in beautiful ruffled Parisian style dresses. Each designer was introduced by news reports of their “deaths” in the fashion world.

Sarina Poppy - The Dream (Silent Movies)

This was quite a hard act to follow but Sarina Poppy’s collection, ‘Dreams’, took us by storm. Her models floated and danced in expertly crafted 1920s inspired dresses, drawing from silent movies, depicting a theme of timeless grace. Sepia tones were used throughout to add to this theme. The models carried a range of spectacular antique clocks, complimenting the flapper style dresses sublimely. To complete the outfits Ms. Poppy collaborated with theatrical milliner, Anushka Tay. I have a huge love for vintage so obviously this was one that was going to pull at my heartstrings. I think Sarina Poppy is absolutely amazing after seeing this. I couldn’t stop thinking about this collection all night. Definitely one to watch!

I.Am.Ralph - Who Needs a Superhero? Vs Will you be my Best Friend?

After a short interval we were offered a bold menswear collection from London based designer, I Am.Ralph. The designer stated, “It is inspired by all my favourite superheroes - Power Rangers, Superman, Spiderman, X–men, Pokemon - the list goes on!” This was translated to the catwalk as bright, bold and blocky colours, using reds, bright blues and greens, worn by skateboarding models ollie-ing onto the catwalk.

Bugsy Pants - Beside the Seaside

 The fun continued as Brighton-based, Bugsy Pants came out with their “build your own” range of swimwear called, Beside the Seaside. A very British collection with newspaper print fabrics and an almost 1940s feel. For the finale of the collection, two models strutted on the catwalk with William and Kate masks whilst wearing union jack swimwear.

 

Joy Williams - Hybrid Walkway

After this, Joy Williams overwhelmed us with her ultra sexy latex earth tone collection called ‘Hybrid Walkway’. The collection was amazing with some very clever embossing and embellishments. Very futuristic. It made me think what clothes would be like if they were designed by Lady Gaga and H.R Geiger. 

Briar-Rose Kelleher - Marie Antionette took DMT

Briar-Rose Kelleher then blasted us back into the 18^th century. The idea behind this collection was ‘what if Marie Antionette went to a free party and took DMT?’ The collection depicts the journey that Antionette would go on and demonstrated the different stages in which the drug affects her. The collection was full of bustles, lace and frills. Intense hardcore Gabba music added to the slightly trip-gone-wrong vibe! It was a truly breathtaking selection and brilliantly executed.

Secret Apple Yard - Charged Up

The night was ended with a visual treat from Secret Apple Yard who gave us a light show spectacular, infused with clothing and amazing visuals to match. The collection, called Charged Up, used cutting edge technology and LCD lights for a futuristic, neon dream. It was like Jean-Paul Gautier doing Tron!

I certainly left the church feeling quite excited. I'm looking forward to tomorrow night's Couture Show where Jez Eaton will be showing off her new collection. Eaton's collection at last years BFW: Trashion Show was quite spectacular and she impressed the audience with her dresses made out of Lidl bags and barbie dolls.

Images taken by Jennie Davies from Vintage Owl Boutique 
Image of Jez Eaton's Lidl dresses courtesy of  telegraph.co.uk
This article was also written for Pretty Litter Magazine

(Please ask for permission if you would like to use any of the pics)