Welcome to the first of a new weekly series; Idol Friday! This week we are looking at French fashion photographer, Guy Bourdin. Since his death in 1991, Bourdin has been hailed as one of the greatest fashion photographers of all time. He was never a natural self-promoter or preserver of his work and wanted it destroyed after his death. Fortunately for us, his art had many admirers and much was saved by private collectors. You can currently go and see the largest UK exhibition of his works at Somerset House. The exhibition features over 100 pieces, including unseen material found at his estate.
Bourdin was born in Paris in 1928 and received his first photography training as a cadet in the French Air Force taking aerial shots. He was an aspiring artist and his main medium at the time was to draw and paint. It wasn't until he saw Edward Weston's 'Pepper' image that something stirred in him, pushing him towards photography. Influenced by Surrealism, Bourdin became a great admirer of Man Ray who was a huge inspiration. After several attempts to visit Ray at his home and each time being turned away by his wife, Bourdin finally managed to introduce himself to his idol and they soon became firm friends, helping each other with various exhibitions and projects.
At the age of 27, Bourdin landed himself a job with Vogue Paris. Whilst there, he worked alongside Helmut Newton and they'd often get competitive with how much sexuality they could push into their work and to the limits of what could be published in the magazine. Although there was rivalry, their work complimented each other beautifully. So much so, in fact, that if they hadn't been working on the same magazine it's likely their audience probably wouldn't have received them as well. One of Bourdin's major clients whilst at Vogue was shoe designer, Charles Jourdan. He worked on Jourdan's ad campaigns between 1967-1981. He had full creative control, which frightened the company a little but his narrative power exceeded the bounds of conventional photography advertising. Because of this his work was greatly anticipated by the media.
Bourdin was born in Paris in 1928 and received his first photography training as a cadet in the French Air Force taking aerial shots. He was an aspiring artist and his main medium at the time was to draw and paint. It wasn't until he saw Edward Weston's 'Pepper' image that something stirred in him, pushing him towards photography. Influenced by Surrealism, Bourdin became a great admirer of Man Ray who was a huge inspiration. After several attempts to visit Ray at his home and each time being turned away by his wife, Bourdin finally managed to introduce himself to his idol and they soon became firm friends, helping each other with various exhibitions and projects.At the age of 27, Bourdin landed himself a job with Vogue Paris. Whilst there, he worked alongside Helmut Newton and they'd often get competitive with how much sexuality they could push into their work and to the limits of what could be published in the magazine. Although there was rivalry, their work complimented each other beautifully. So much so, in fact, that if they hadn't been working on the same magazine it's likely their audience probably wouldn't have received them as well. One of Bourdin's major clients whilst at Vogue was shoe designer, Charles Jourdan. He worked on Jourdan's ad campaigns between 1967-1981. He had full creative control, which frightened the company a little but his narrative power exceeded the bounds of conventional photography advertising. Because of this his work was greatly anticipated by the media.
As you can see from his images, Boudin liked to use hard acid colours and play on reflections. This was a contrast to Newton's work who was the complete opposite and loved working in black & white with S&M influences. Inspired by the memory of his Parisian mother, Bourdin would pick models with a deathly palour & their make-up had to have a doll-like quality. He was definitely a perfectionist and would often work for days on one piece until he felt he had created his vision. But once a piece was created to his liking it would very often get disposed of once published in a magazine. It was as if he preferred the process of perfecting a shot rather than the end result.
Even today, at first glance, it's hard to tell that some of his photos are 40 - 50 years old.
On the other side of the lens, Bourdin was often described as troubled and impish. It was observed that his wife, Sybil, who sadly committed suicide, was not allowed to leave their home and the many glamorous models who would work with him were often dismayed at the remoteness and squalid conditions that Bourdin lived and worked in. Many blame this on the abandonment he faced from his parents as a child. As with many revered artists, it seems that his talent stemmed from trauma.
Even today, at first glance, it's hard to tell that some of his photos are 40 - 50 years old.
On the other side of the lens, Bourdin was often described as troubled and impish. It was observed that his wife, Sybil, who sadly committed suicide, was not allowed to leave their home and the many glamorous models who would work with him were often dismayed at the remoteness and squalid conditions that Bourdin lived and worked in. Many blame this on the abandonment he faced from his parents as a child. As with many revered artists, it seems that his talent stemmed from trauma.
It would be intriguing to know what Bourdin thought of his work now, being exhibited in such a large exhibition and hailed as one of the top fashion photographers of all time. He was definitely a pioneer and was the first to show the product as a secondary subject in an image and also the first to truly connect with the lower and middle classes. His images brought them a brighter future, parallel to a darker side, images with a cinematic quality, containing suspense and anxiety.
What do you think of Guy Bourdin's work? Have you been to see the exhibition yet?
Big love,
Big love,
Guy Bourdin: Image Maker exhibition is running until 15th March 2015
at Somerset House. Tickets are only £9 and you can buy them in advance here
ALL IMAGES ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND SOURCED FROM HERE
PLEASE ASK FOR PERMISSION BEFORE USING!
THANK YOU :)
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